kaer·lagefei(karl lagerfeld)delishibujinweixiangnaier(chanel)he fendi zheiliangdashishangpinpailiuxialekongque,yebiaozhizhedongdangjiajudequanqiushechipinshichangkenengzaichuangyifangmianjinglizhongdazhuanbian。
xiangnaieryijingrenminggongsineibumingqixiangduibuda、changzhubaligongzuodeweierjini·weiyaer(virginie viard)jietilagefeidegongzuo。zaiguoqu 30 duonianli,shenweixiangnaierchuangyigongzuoshizongjiandeweiyaeryizhishilagefeidedelizhushou。
lagefeizai 1965 nianchengwei fendi dechuangyizongjian。muqian,gaigongsihaiweijiejuejiebanrenxuandewenti,jinjinfabiaoshengmingchengjiang“shaohou”zuochuanpai。ciwai,lagefeidezijiapinpaiyemeiyoufabujirenzhedexiaoxi。gaitongmingpinpaichuangliyu 1984 nian,bufenguquanshuyusimuguquangongsi apax partners。
“jintian,wobujinshiquleyiweizhiyou,womenhaishiquleyiweijiechudechuangyitiancai,”xiangnaiershouxizhixingguanalan·weitehaimo(alain werthemer)zaidangdishijianzhouer(2 yue 19 ri)fabiaodeshengmingzhongbiaoshi。gaishengmingzhengshilezheiwei 85 suidedeguoshejishiqushidexiaoxi。“kaer·lagefeiyiqichuangyicaihua、kangkaijingshenheminruiguorendezhijuelingxianyushidai,weixiangnaierpinpaizaiquanqiufanweineihuodechenggongzuochulejudadegongxian。”
lagefeiyu 1983 nianjiaruxiangnaier。zhangjiuyilai,tayizhibeifengweishijiangxiangnaierdazaochengquanqiudaxingshechipinpaidelinghunrenwu。tabujindailingxiangnaierchengweishishangdaxiudedaimingci,haichuangxinyanyilexiangnaierwuhaoxiangshui、heiseshuyaojiake、shuangsebaleiwuxiehelinggewenshoudaidengjingdianzhizuo。
qunian,sirenchigudexiangnaierzaichengli 108 nianzhijishoucigongbunianducaibao。baogaoxianshi,gaigongsiyichengweiyiguqiangdadexingyeliliang,zai 2017 nianchuangzaolegaoda 96.2 yimeiyuandezongxiaoshoue,biqianyiniantongbizengzhangle 11%。
gaicaibaohaibiaoming,xiangnaierzhengzaichaoyue gucci dengjingzhengduishou,yubeishiweixingyelingxiudeluyi·weideng(louis vuitton)bingjiaqiqu。
jinguanlagefeiyuxiangnaierqiandingdeshizhongshenheyue,danyouyutajinnianlaijiankangzhuangkuangbujia,sheijiangchengweijiebanrendewentisihuyichengweileshizhuangjiedecaimiyouxi。xiangnaierdesiyingxingzhiheqixiajiweichenggongdemeizhuangxian,ranglagefeihuodelebitongxinggengduodechuangzuoziyou,yerangtadegongzuochengweixingyedianfan。xuduorenzaisidixiadoumengxiangnengchengweitadejiebanren。
duonianlai,zhongduoshizhuangshejishidoubeishiweijiebanrenderemenrenxuan,qizhongbaokuomake·yakebu(marc jacobs,zaitaganglikailuyi·weidengdeshihou)、aerbo·aierbaci(alber elbaz,lanvin deqianchuangyizongjian)、aidi·siliman(hedi slimane,zhongsuozhouzhi,tashilagefeizuixihuandeshejishi),haiyouzuijinlikai celine、zhengzailundunxushidaifadefeibi·feiluo(phoebe philo)。
zuizhong,xiangyouxiangnaierkongzhiquandeyiwanfuwengjiazuweitehaimomeiyouxuanzezhimingshejishi,ershixuanzeleweiyaer。xiangbizhixia,weiyaermeiyouxiangyuquanqiudezhimingdu,zaishejiaomeitiyequefahaozhaoli,dantashiyiweizhongchengdehezuohuoban。genjugaigongsishengming,zheiyixuanzejiangquebaoyanxu“jiabolier·xiangnaier(gabrielle chanel)hekaer·lagefeichuangxiadechuanqi”。weiyaershizuianquan、zuikejingderenxuan。
lagefeibenrenjinlaisihuyeyizhizaiweizheigejuedingzuopudian。zaiduocidaxiuluomushi,tadouhuixieshouweiyaerlaidaozouxiutaijugongzhixie。jinnian 1 yue,lagefeimeiyouanguanlichuxianzaixiangnaierzuixinyichangshizhuangxiudeweisheng,gongsifabiaoshengmingbiaoshi,ta“gandaopilao”,yinciweituoweiyaer“daibiaotaxiangjiabinmenxiemu”。
xianzai,suoyoudemuguangdoujujiaozaiweiyaershenshang,xiangkantashifounengbaxiandaishechipinxingyeyoushiyilaizuizhangdehuihuangchuanqifayangguangda,yecaicetahuixuanzezaigaipinpaishangliuxiazijideyinji,haishibaochididiaojuyumuhou。
jinjigeyuelai,xiangnaierdedongshihuiyeyijingkaishicaiquxingdonglaibaozhanggongsidezhangyuanqianjing。qunian,gaigongsixuanbuzailundunchenglileyijiaxindekonggugongsi——xiangnaieryouxiangongsi(chanel limited),bingjiangqixiasuoyouyewuhe 2 wanmingyuangongzhenghezaiyiqijinxingguanli,congerjianhualezi 1950 niandaiyilaizhidingdefalvhezuzhijiegou。zhengyinruci,dangzhenggeshechipinxingyezaibenzhouxianrumoaizhiji,xuduoguancharenshidouxiangxin,xiangnaiernenggoujingshouzhulagefeiqushidekaoyan。
“womenkandao,xiangnaierzaiquniandebiaoxianxiangdangqiangjing,congjudadeshichangtouzizhonghuolipofeng,”meiguoboensitanfenxigongsi(bernstein)deshechipinxingyegaojifenxishiluka·suoerka(luca solca)biaoshi。“gaigongsideyewubidaduoshugongsigengweijunheng,gaoduanshichangdegaodingshizhuangherumenjiageshichangdemeizhuangchanpindebiaoxiandoushifenliangyan,weigongsitigongleguangkuodefazhanjichu。”
“lagefeidelishijiangliuxiajudadekongbaiyoudaitianbu,”tabuchongdao。“danxiangnaiershiyigeqiangdadepinpai,yongyoupangdadeneiburencaiku,zaishichangzhongyejuyouxiangdangdadehaozhaoli。”
lagefeidetongmingshizhuangpinpaihe fendi yeshoudaoqiqushideyingxiang,danliangjiagongsijiexialaihuizuoheanpai,haiyoudaiguancha。fendi lishuyuquanqiuzuidadeshechipinjituan——mingyue·xuannishi-luyi·weidengjituan(lvmh moët hennessy),shigaijituanqixiazhengzaikuaisufazhandemingxingpinpai。zhouer,zongbuweiyuluomade fendi fabiaoshengming,biaoshilagefeidelishishi“nanyixiangxiangdesunshi”。
“kaer·lagefeiyizhishiwodedaoshi,yeshiwodebangyang,”fuzenanzhuang、peishihetongzhuangdechuangyizongjianxierweiya·fendi(silvia fendi)biaoshi。“zhiyaozhayizhayan,womenbicijiunengxinlingshenhui。”
tabuchongdao:“duiyu fendi pinpaihewobenrenlaishuo,lagefeidechuangyicaihuayizhibingyongyuandoushiwomendeyinluzhideng,zhiyinwomensuzaogaipinpaide dna。”
dangdishijianzhousi(2 yue 21 ri),lagefeiwei fendi shejidezuihouyigeshizhuangxiliejiangzaimilanzhanchu。